3DoNE


3dOne

Welcome and thank you for visiting.

This is the Page for the development of the 3D printers we use daily and after 3 years we finally feel they are good enough to share.

Our printers are modular making upgrades and size variations easy, we believe this is one of the designs biggest advantages.

One section can be upgraded without affecting the rest of your printer.
The printers are named 3dOne and their version numbers are a very original P1, P2, P3, P4, and P5. At this time I am on version P5 and while my printers have been very good for a while this one just printed beautifully from the start. These numbers don’t so much represent build numbers as they do generational changes. P3 P4 and P5 look very similar but on closer inspection you will see significant differences.

Being a modular design many parts that where designed for the P5 printer has been retrofitted to the P4. This exercise also gives us new ideas on how to make maintenance and upgrades easier for future builds.

The printer build files are posted under the groups section of this site. You will need to join to gain access to the files, but they are free to download.
We don’t send out email marketing and will not sell or hand over your email address it will only be used for communication from the site.

Our printer design in highly customisable to suit your requirements and should provide you with a easy to build and maintain printer that will put many store bought printers to shame.

Even after being built the open frame nature of the design means you can modify it to change or adjust dimensions, meaning you can tweak and change your printer to suit your requirements. That’s a good thing right?

We do hope you consider building our printer, we think its awesome and believe you will too.

Michael Scholtz


Now the boring but important stuff:

ALL COMPONENTS are provided as is under the license free for personal use but not commercial use. You may make this printer for your own use but you cannot sell them, unless by written agreement from us.

CC-BY-NC-SA

CC – Creative Commons
BY – Credit the Author in all your work
NC – NON Commercial
SA – Share Alike – you need to share changes made to my work under the same license.

Under the terms of the license the extruder arm is based on a design by Mickb originally published here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:43411
Some other parts may be included as is from their original design unmodified by us this may be by link to the original part or simply posted with the parts if allowed.


Contents

  • 1 Construction
  • 2 Printer parts
  • 3 Modular components
  • 4 Tools you will or may need
  • 5 Basic Parts list
  • 6 Some basic tips

Construction

The 3dOne printers are constructed from a aluminum frame with printed parts holding part in-place. Printer P2 was built on a 19mm frame and all subsequent machine are built on 25mm square tube. 19mm is suitable for a small printer in the 20x20x10 range and this is actually sufficient for many prints, the 25mm framed machines are built to print 30x30x30 and can scale a bit bigger than that.

The construction is one made to be from parts that are easy to find. if you have a cube structure you can build this printer into it. to change the size of the printer can be done by simply increasing the length of the parts in the dimension you want to increase it. It means this is a printer that can be built to your requirements.

As the printer is modular we will attempt to structure the build as modular components. This means you can have printer built differently and add a 3dOne x axis gantry (if the belts match up).

Printer parts

This printer has distinctly different parts that operate independently so upgrades are modular. You can increase ht height of your z axis by changing 7 components

  • the 4x aluminum tubes
  • the 2x linear rods
  • the length of your lead screw or threaded rod.

Increasing each of these by 200mm will increase your build height by 200mm pretty much the same goes for the y and x axis Just bear in mind the greater height increases flex in the chassis and greater width especially in the x axis means the print head can flex the shafts more. That’s why I would recommend not building this machine with a build volume greater than 300x300x300mm

Modular components

The 6 modular parts for the machine can be seen as 5 individual parts and additional addons

The printed parts are listed below individual build instructions will include the vitamins.

  • The Z axiz

    • Print bed
    • Print bed holders
    • Z axis shaft holders
    • z axis motor mount
  • The Y axis

    • Front and Rear Y axis shaft mounts (they are different its 4 parts)
    • Front idler bearing mount
    • Rear bearing drive shaft holders
    • Y axis motor mount
    • Y axis pulley ( if you’re gong to print it)
  • The X Axis

    • X axis motor mount
    • X axis idler mount
    • Print head mount
    • 3x belt clamps
  • Extruder (bowden setup)

    • Extruder arm
    • Extruder motor mount
    • Extruder frame mount
    • Extruder bowden clamp
  • Print head

    • parts are dependent on the type of head
    • cooling fan parts if needed
    • A design for an e3d mount is underway but as I don’t use them I haven’t spent much time with it
    • bowden clamp if needed
    • alternate parts if you want a direct extruder mount.
  • Hangers and struts

    • Filament spool holder
    • PSU mounts
    • Ramps mounts
    • Printed struts (they take a long time to print and aren’t as strong as cut aluminum)
    • ducting for PSU to blow over ramps board ( a lot of printing and PSU dependent but worth it)

Tools you will or may need

Some of these tools are going to be required some are optional to make life easier.

  • Digital vernier caliper
  • Screw drivers (flat star etc)
  • Ceramic or plastic screw driver for adjusting the stepper drivers (don’t skimp one slip will cost you your arduino mega)
  • Dremel or similar tool ( cutting, grinding, cleaning, engraving)
  • You will need a saw to cut aluminum (I used to use a hack saw but have since got a cheap miter saw and can highly recommend it)
  • a Multimeter (digital, but most of them are now anyway)
  • A soldering iron (if you don’t you’re going to be chasing loose connections for the rest of your life)
  • Pop rivets and riveter (DUH)
  • Hand drill (a bench drill press can also help preserve your sanity.)
    • Bit for rivets for 4mm rivets use an 4,2mm bit
    • 8mm bit for cleaning out shaft holes
    • 15mm for cleaning out bearing holes (usually not needed but depends on print quality)
  • Side cutter for cutting wire and cable ties.

Consumables and Hardware

  • Heat shrink tubing
  • Cable ties, lots and lots of cable ties. (when you think you have enough get another pack)
  • Screws nuts and bolts
    • M3 ( need at least 30x of these )
      • Lengths for these vary from 8mm – 45mm
      • They are cheap enough to get tonnes of all sizes
    • M6 4x 30mm bolts with nuts (for bed leveling)
    • M8 4x 30mm bolts with nuts if you want to add leveling screws

Basic Parts list

  • You will need the printed parts for this printer to facilitate assembly. These depend on the printer you are building. Certain parts are specific to the the 19mm or 25mm frame and others can be used on both.
    • You can support my project by ordering a printed set of parts from me. I’m paranoid about quality and you can be assured that parts ordered from me will be of the highest quality.
  •  Vitamins
    • Connect-it connectors to build your frame and matched to the tube size.
      • I was surprised to find these are native to South-Africa, You can order a set from me or find an alternate solution.
      • These are corner inserts that attach 3 tubes in 8 places to construct a cubed frame, if you see it you will understand it.
    • I base my machines on RAMPS1.4 but there is no reason other controllers won’t work.
      • 1x Arduino Mega
      • 1x Ramps Shield
      • 4x Stepper drivers (5x if you want dual extruder)
        • You can get away with a4988 drivers
        • I would highly recommend 8825 drivers
    • You will need between 4 and 6 stepper motors
      • 4 for the X,Y,Z and E
      • 1 additional required for 2nd extruder.
      • 1 additional highly recommended 2nd Z axis drive.
    • 3x endstop micro switches or optical switches if you want.
    • 8mm stainless steel or bearing grade shaft (stainless works fine but does wear a little over time)
    • Pulleys required (GT2 or GT2.5)
      • 2x 8mm shaft
      • 2x 5mm (for stepper motor so match to that)
      • 1x printed pulley for Y axis (can use another one as you do on the 8mm shaft I use the bigger one for additional torque to move the x axis)
    • Bearings
      • 5x 688z
      • 1x 608z for extruder ( 2nd one for dual extruder needed)
      • 6x LM8LUU linear bearings OR
      • 12x LM8UU linear bearings can be used instead but the longer ones are MUCH better and you need 1/2 as many
      • Some 2-4 additional ones if you’re adding a 2nd Z axis support.
    • GT2 158 tooth closed loop belt (match to stepper pulley)
      • The belt can have more teeth as the motor mount has a lot adjustment available
      • My printed pulley is a GT2 one if you cannot find a matching belt and stepper pulley you will need to change it.
    • Power supply
      • I use an ATX Power supplies the ones with a 120mm and single power input should fit into the printed parts especially if you want to print the air ducts and covers.
    • 3x belt tensioners

Some basic tips

  • That dremel tool I mentioned engraving, use it to engrave the size of your nozzles onto them. 0,4 0,3 etc or you will end up with a box full of them with no idea what size they are.
  • How I tell the difference between X,Y and Z. I may be stupid but it works for me.
    • The Z axis is up and down Z looks like a scissor lift that goes up and down.
    • X axiz is a cross the axis moves across the printer
    • Y is an arrow pointing towards you and Y moves towards you and back